You don’t want to have the rod length too long because then it’s just prematurely pushing on the master cylinder piston. Universal 8' Bendix style dual diaphragm brake booster. to get a good adjustment in the op rod position I myself used some grease or something like white lithium grease so when you set the master cylinder on it you can see inside the master cylinder when the rod is at the right length, and that it’s just touching. 8' Power Brake Booster Dual Diaphragm Universal Bendix Style Chrome. You don’t want it emptying out and sucking air back into it.įor the power booster. 1961 - 1964 Ford Thunderbird power brake booster and master cylinder disc drum. Remember during all of this to keep the master cylinder topped off. Close then pump back up again until all the air is out. pump the brake petal up until firm then open the bleeder. Please note that by adding this to your cart, we will also add a Core Charge of 250.00 to your cart as well. For use on the following vehicles: 1963 Ford Thunderbird. Otherwise you can suck air back into the system. A2005AF Brake Booster, Midland Ross, Rebuild. Make absolutely sure the person in the car is working with you and that they DO NOT start pumping the petal until you close the bleeder. You open the bleeder screw and the fluid and bubbles come out. have the person pump the petal until firm then they hold it. This makes it easier to see bubbles, and it doesn’t leave a mess.Īfter the passenger side go to the drivers rear wheel. The kit is usually some length of tube and a cup to catch the fluid. Your local parts store will usually always have it. Then you open the bleeder screw and watch until no more air bubbles come out. Have someone sit in the car and pump the petal until firm. Then you can reinstall it.īleeding is done by starting on the back passenger wheel. You can tell that the air is out because the piston gets stiffer to push on. Repeat this process until all the air is pushed out of the master cylinder. There are actual tools, but a punch will work fine. DO NOT USE A SCREW DRIVER! You can gouge the inside of the master cylinder piston. After both ports are leaking fluid you close them up and get something with a round tip. First you fill it up then gravity bleed it. on the friction surfaces will cause poor braking on that side.Click to expand.Because you will not get the full length stroke while on the car. Also cleanliness can NOT be overstated, any grease, etc. If one does pull its often deteriorated rubber brake lines that have "hour-glassed" internally, sometimes its a "stuck" wheel cylinder. With good drums, quality shoes and a proper installation and adjustment NEITHER side should pull and neither side should have 75% of the shoe material NOT contacting the drums. This kit comes complete with a dual diaphragm power brake booster and dual chamber master cylinder for maximum stopping power. Jamco Parts is proud to introduce our power brake conversion kit for your 1961-64 T-Bird. There are leading and trailing shoes and adjusters are NOT interchangeable side to side, most will have an L or R imprinted on them someplace. 1961-64 Ford Thunderbird 8 Power Brake Booster Conversion Kit. Next make ABSOLUTELY sure the shoes and springs are installed correctly. I've used their premium shoes and drums on dozens of classics with zero issues. If the drums are in spec and not out-of-round then quality shoes are available at all NAPA stores. First off (as stated above) have your drums checked to make sure the material is still within spec. Sounds like your mechanic isn't all that familiar with drum brakes. In fact, drum brakes saved my life in 2016. I've driven manual drum brake classic cars for 50 years with zero issues and no "pre-arcing" in the last 20. The driver does after a couple hundred miles of driving and braking the shoes will naturally wear into a compatible arc. We offer high quality new, OEM, aftermarket ford thunderbird brake booster parts. Nobody arcs brake shoes anymore, well - not totally true.
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